Lukla

Arrived in Lukla this morning after a gentle trek uphill from Phakding.

It has been a marvellous 24 day trek where we have accomplished what we set out to do. We have photographed the big mountains aggressively. All the time looking at the geological clues to their formation. We have pondered hard at the consistency of the big features. Whilst in awe of the differences of Everest which not surprisingly stands alone. Or does it?

My thanks go to Chhiring who has looked after me every step of the way. His enthusiasm has never faltered. Calling to me have you seen the mist has cleared!!!! Revealing shining Himalayan masters.

And he has kept me healthy. Always in the kitchen watching the food preparation.

Kathmandu tomorrow. A return to Nepalese reality.

Monjo

Against expectations the day started clear in Kyangjuma with grand panoramas of Ama Dablam and Thamserku. So after breakfast we setup the tripod and did not waste what was a fine opportunity.

The rest of the day we headed down to Namche Bazaar and then down and across the many fine suspension bridges. We exited the national park and will spend the night in Monjo.

Lukla awaits.

Kyangjuma

We arrived in Kyangjuma after an interesting up and down downhill day. We called into Tengboche Monastery in time for morning prayers. I walked through the curtains into the inner sanctum and was hit by an astounding wall of big horn small horn drums and chanting that I was unprepared for. The monks were in their distinctive yellow clam hats. I sat there the only witness to a fervent other world.

It rained as we walked up the other side to Kyangjuma but it didn’t matter. Nepal has a special warmth for all occasions.

Pangboche

Walked down in rain and enveloping mist through an awe inspiring landscape to Pangboche.

We stayed in the Sonam Lodge. When we arrived the lodge was deserted. Tschering walked into the kitchen and started preparing chips. I queried if you can do this? I am family he replied.

Girme Sherpa the owner has climbed Everest 4 times. Interesting guy!!!

Chukhung

We spent a couple of days in Chukhung chasing the light and avoiding the mists on the south face of Lhotse/Nuptse. Mornings have been clear but by the time Lhotse lit up the mists had rolled in.

Not so the North Face of Ama Dablam which towers over Chukhung.

We walked up to Imja lake. Yes it now huge and the water thundered off down the valley. It was an overpowering end of the world experience. The local Sherpa had been on high alert for the lake during the 2015 earthquake.

Dingboche

After two full on days at Gorak Shep we headed down to Dingboche.

GS has not in many respects changed. Just got bigger and I suspect that its problems have amplified.

In sharp contrast the aura of Everest and its satellites is overwhelming. The trekkers were ecstatic. The photographic opportunities were all I hoped for and more as the pre monsoon rains come and go leaving behind astounding clarity.

Gorak Shep

We took the ridge above Pyramid this morning and was rewarded by a fabulous view of Nuptse SW face. The thrust was beautifully exposed along with the Spider wall. So we hung around in the meadow alternatively chilling and photographing the developing scene. Beneath us the Everest marathon runners rolled by.

The final push up through the moraine allowed us to chat with those coming down from base camp including the venerable Icefall Drs.

Pyramid

We crossed the Chola Pass yesterday in a 9 hour day. The pass was more challenging than I remember it in 2009. The route up the Gokyo side has been modified and resembles a via Ferrata with wire deployed on the slabby sections. The glacier is collapsing and shrinking on the Dzongla side. Tschering and I walked alone through memorable meadows past the 400 happy yaks under the big wall of Cholatse.

Today after a glorious sunrise over Ama Dablam and a puja in Dzongla we headed up to Pyramid the glacial research centre. Under the terminus of Lobuche Glacier.

And onwards to Everest.

Dragnag

We climbed Gokyo Ri yesterday. It was as expected an altitude challenge for me rewarded by wonderful panoramas including Everest. Gokyo is a magical place. Pasang in the Thanka Inn made us very welcome.

Today we navigated the path across the Ngzumpa Glacier. The water mini lakes have greatly expanded since I was here in 2009. The atmosphere is one of constant movement as the ice melts and the outwash slides!!

Gokyo

The lakes are deep blue green and the welcome warm from Pasang. His lodge post dates the earthquake and opened before Covid. Life is challenging up in the Zone but the inhabitants were born to it.

He greatly appreciated the download of Everest Collided. And gave me a fascinating insight into where everyone was that feature in the book.

The views today and the pure joy of all the trekkers was memorable. Including a 74 German lady who was in her element.

Machermo

After 6 days of walking Tschering and I have reached 4400m at Machermo, having spent nights in Kunde and Dole. We wandered through amazing vegetation with spring flowers and wildlife. The mountains came and went until we exited the forest at Dole. We just made it to the lodge and a violent electric storm rolled through. The atmosphere cleared and we saw the full panoply of sunset light. The mountains were coated in fresh snow. It was a fabulous photo opportunity.

Next morning while photographing Kantega a huge avalanche the width of the N Face broke off the summit serac. I heard some ?10kms away. Incredible sight.

The thrusts and nappes a geologists conundrum. Thrilled to be here.

Acclimatisation day tomorrow then on To Gokyo.

Kunde

Trekked from Namche to Kunde today. A four hour photographic joy. Completely against expectation Kunde peak appeared out of the pre Monsoon mist. Shortly followed by Thamserku. They jostled for attention for 15 minutes and then they were gone.

We continued climbing higher onto the old airstrip in this surreal swirling mist. They were building a new yak fence. And a 16 year old girl from Makalu allowed me to take her portrait and video as she hammered violently on the Great Himalayan Sequence gneiss.

We meandered gloriously alone throw misty prayer flags and walls and rolled into Kunde. There was a tiny patch of artificial grass by the splendid prayer wheels where the local youth were sunning themselves when they should have been in school. One wanted to be a Yak Driver consistent with his claim to own 40 yaks. The second whose father had summited Everest 10 times wanted to be a climber. And the third a software engineer.

Ama Dablam dramatically appeared for 10 minutes to cap off a day that has made it all worthwhile

Arrive in Namche

Jostled with the trekking crowds and pack horses on a splendid eight hour day. It took longer than expected because I couldn’t stop photographing. Such was the splendour of the landscape.

Tschering and I are forming a good partnership. He watched me carefully. At the last corner before Namche an amorous horse went rogue and he grabbed me and hauled me out of the way as it charged past.

Rest day. Then up into the zone.

Fly to Lukla

After two hectic days of lining out in Kathmandu, we flew to. Lukla this morning. On finals the plane lurched, accompanied by a bang and a collective gasp from the twenty passengers. In the event the landing was text book. Shaken not stirred.

We being the redoubtable Tschering who will look after me well in the coming weeks.

I feel good to be on the trail. It is the almost overpowering scale and the lure of Everest that accompanies me as we head down to Phakding.

Return to Nepal

After an absence of 15 years, I am returning to Nepal in early May. Nepal has always been my favourite destination for mountain photography. As a geologist, visiting the home of the highest and youngest mountains on the planet has special attractions. Add to this the cultural diversity and a population that is willing to be photographed, and you have an alluring combination. Trekking through the high mountains and crossing the high passes brings challenges of acclimatisation, but it comes with a rhythm and meditative state that is difficult to explain. You get up in the early morning for the sunrise shoot, and you hang around in the evening for the sunset opportunities. In between, you walk in a Zen-like focus. Interacting with the local and trekker traffic on the paths and turning every corner to new and exciting vistas.

Inaugural Blog Post Cycle50.net

29 Feb

Written By Alex Milne

Welcome to my blog. Cycle50.net draws on the fifty climatic cycles within the Quaternary. The Quaternary is a period of our recent geological past which has seen fifty major glacial cycles from expansion to retreat. Currently, we are in an interglacial and hence warming. Had you been asked this question in the 1940s or 50s, you could have been told that we were colding and heading into another ice age. I am less concerned about getting warmer than I am about the real concerns we could tip into Global Colding, related to reconfiguring oceanic currents. Given Earth’s climatic gyrations, I am sceptical that we can, through human intervention, be confident of influencing the climate. If you want to read more deeply into the alternative view I encourage you to download the Shrinking Glacier Conundrum in the book section